Composting to Save the Planet

“(Holds up a soda can) Hey, you know how I’m, like, always trying to save the planet? (Tosses the can in the recycle bin and looks at the spaceship) Here’s my chance.” –David Levinson, Independence day

I’m just like David, always trying to save the planet.  And now I will tell you about a really easy way for you to help save the planet, too: Composting!  How does composting help the planet?  I am glad you asked.  When food waste ends up in a landfill, it rots and releases methane gas which contributes to climate change.   Food waste in a landfill cannot biodegrade, and the nutrients don’t make it back into the soil.  Composting reduces the the methane gas released in landfills, keeps some “garbage” out of landfills, and lets our beautiful world keep some of its valuable nutrients!  Wins all around!


Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links.  See my Disclosure Policy for more information.


Composting to save the planet text over image of compost pile

You can save food “waste” from the landfill, and from compost

Ok, before I get into the details about composting, I want you to know that there are ways to reduce your food waste, to reduce what needs to go into landfills or compost.  According to the EPA, about 1/3 of food produced in the US is not eaten.  The “EPA estimates that more food reaches landfills and incinerators than any other single material in our everyday trash.”  This is a serious problem.  Why is it happening?

In the US, and probably elsewhere in the world, we have this expectation that all the food we eat should look perfect.  Well guess what?  Food does not have to look perfect to be safe, healthy, and delicious!

I am NOT advocating for you to eat rotten or moldy food.  But a bruise on an apple, crack in the skin of a tomato, or brown color of avocado after the cut flesh has been exposed to the air and oxidizes are not going to kill you.  The food is still good: safe and nutritious!  My first recommendation is to embrace eating “ugly food” (check out @UglyFruitAndVeg on Twitter).  To help reduce food waste, consider meal planning: only buying what you need to avoid letting food rot in your house, and don’t dispose of food until it has really gone bad!

Even if you try hard to reduce your food waste, there will still be some: the skin of a spaghetti squash, apple cores (though some people eat those…I am not there yet!) zucchini stems, kale stems, and egg shells all end up in my waste pile.  These items can all be kept out of landfills – they’re perfect candidates for composting!

What exactly is composting?

Composting is a way to accelerate the natural process of decomposition of organic matter.  By combining the proper ratio of organic matter, specific organisms, heat, or a combination of these things, decomposition is accelerated.  This results in the creation of nutrient-rich soil-like compost, which can be mixed with soil of potted plants, vegetable gardens, flower gardens, and more.  


The following comes from the Institute for Local Self-Reliance (www.ilsr.org), a national nonprofit organization working to strengthen local economies, and redirect waste into local recycling, composting, and reuse industries. It is reprinted here with permission.


Composting at home

Anyone can compost at home!  If you have some outdoor space, a bin, pile or tumbler is a simple way to start composting.  For city-dwellers, there are small indoor options, too.

Outdoor composting

The key to healthy backyard compost is the ratio of 1 part “green” to 3 parts “brown” matter.  If you maintain this ratio and avoid certain items, your compost will NOT smell, and it will break down well.

It’s pretty simple: “green” matter is essentially moist organic matter, and brown matter is dried organic matter.  For the most part, both green and brown matter are plant-based, though there are some exceptions.  Green matter includes fruit and vegetable stems, peels, and rotten pieces; plant trimmings; egg shells (crush them before adding to your compost); tea bags and coffee grounds.  Brown matter includes dried leaves, shredded newspaper, shredded cardboard, twigs, paper towels, and paper napkins (if not soiled with oily substances).  

Avoid things like dairy, meats, and fats, as these items cannot break down in a backyard compost, and will attract pests. 

Compost Pile

The simplest and least expensive way to compost is with a compost pile.  at the most basic level, you can just dump your compost in a pile.  To make it a little more contained, you can use chicken wire and some stakes to encircle a space for your compost pile.  My awesome friend E shared a picture of her backyard compost pile:

compost pile
E’s compost pile

Since a compost pile is uncovered, it works well to keep the brown matter on top.  E’s family keeps the compost pile in a forested area of the yard with plenty of leaves around.  After tossing green matter into the pile, they put some dead leaves on top to cover.  This keeps the compost pile balanced near the efficient ratio of 1:3 green to brown matter, and keeps rotting smells away.

Compost bin

Another option for backyard composting, which works well if you have more limited space or want to keep the compost more contained, is a compost bin.  Compost bins resemble a 50 gallon trash barrel.  They are relatively inexpensive (around $100 online), and completely hide the compost.  I was able to pick one up from Rhode Island Resource Recovery.  I believe the state or town subsidizes part of the cost, and that I only paid about $20 for my compost bin.  Check your local refuse department, or look for one at a hardware store.  

Compost Bin
my compost bin

Since I don’t have dried yard waste readily available to use as brown matter, I shred or rip up newspapers, and add this to my compost bin every so often.  

To keep the compost decomposing properly, you need to “turn” your compost pile periodically.  I do this a couple times a year, more often in the summer and usually do not in the winter.  You can use a shovel or hoe, but I have found the Compost Crank to be the easiest way to do this. 

Pro tip

If you want to ensure that your compost stays contained within your chicken-wired space or bin, block the bottom with chicken wire.  Lay down chicken wire on the ground where you want your compost bin or pile, then put up the chicken wire fence or compost bin over this. 

Why is chicken wire under your compost necessary?  

Well, it is not necessary, but recommended.  My friends, even if you keep the meat and dairy out of your compost to keep the raccoons and rats away, there are other pesky critters who think that your compost pile is their own private feeding ground! 

I had my compost bin for about 1 year without any issues.  Then one day, I noticed that much of the contents of my compost bin were piled up NEXT to the bin.  It was early summer and getting warmer, and I knew decomposition would be accelerating.  I wanted the compost contained.  I shoveled everything back in the bin.  The next day…the same thing happened.  A cute little chipmunk was taking over my compost bin!  I don’t mind him snacking on my food scraps, but I wanted the contents staying IN the bin. So I removed the bin, shoveled the compost onto a tarp, laid down chicken wire, put the bin back, and shoveled the compost back into the bin.  Save yourself the trouble and just put down chicken wire before you put any compost in the bin!

chipmunk
these cute critters like snacking from your compost pile
Tumbling compost bin

If you want to get a little fancier, there are tumbling compost containers.  They resemble a barrel turned on its side, and are suspended in a frame that allows them to rotate, tumbling and mixing the contents.  This makes the mixing process much easier. 

Several of the tumbling compost bins on the market today have 2 separate chambers.  I highly recommend getting one of those if you want a tumbling composter, because this allows the ability to continuously add fresh material while still being able to harvest the broken down compost for gardening.  Once one side starts to get full, or whenever you have a good ratio (remember 1 part green to 3 parts brown), you can stop using that side, and in a couple of weeks to months (temperature and content size dependent) you’ll have compost that you can mix with your garden soil.  But, all this time, you can be using the other side for your newly generated compostable waste. 

While I don’t own one of these (yet), this small tumbling compost bin looks pretty good, and at a reasonable price (under $100, as of October 2017).  Check the size of the bin before you buy to make sure it’ll work for you!  My bin is about 80 gallons, whereas this tumbling one is only 37 gallons. 

Indoor composting

Composting indoors typically uses worms, and is called vermicomposting. With a vermicomposting, you have a setup in which redworms (Eisenia foetida, also called the red wiggler), consume and digest kitchen scraps, excreting a nutrient-rich compost material. The process is fairly quick, can be done in a smaller volume space than a typical outdoor composter, but you need to use more care to as to keep the worms alive. For example, you need to keep the air temperature within a certain range (so in some regions, you may not be able to keep your worm composter in the basement, garage, or outside) and you have to use care not to over feed your worms, or feed them food that they cannot digest.

I have never experimented with vermicomposting myself, so if you decide to go down this path, I recommend you check out some other resources, such as Cornell’s worm composting basics, worm composting made easy, and worm composting 101.  

Commercial or Industrial Composting

I think commercial or industrial composting is awesome, and I hope that soon it will become more widespread.  Industrial or commercial composting is large scale composting, and can handle a wider range of organic materials than backyard or vermicomposters.  Diary, meat, bones, non-recyclable paper, and more, plus everything that can go in backyard compost can go into industrial compost.  This is because industrial compost facilities carefully monitor the chemical makeup of compost (think of it as a more sophisticated version of the backyard composter maintaining the 1:3 ratio of green to brown matter), work with large volumes so they can generate more heat, and have equipment to grind organic material into smaller pieces to speed the decomposition process. 

Commercial compost facilities can sell the compost to farms, municipalities, and individuals, generating income to fund the process. With landfill space filling up fast, some cities have adopted a mandatory composting system with industrial compost facilities.  San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Minneapolis require residents to put all food waste in special bins to go to compost facilities.  This solves their immediate concern of overfilled landfills, and helps the planet.  Other cities are investigating commercial composting, but this transition is slow. 

The negatives to industrial composting

There are some potential downsides to commercial compost.  While only certain materials are accepted (no garbage waste like plastics and metals), there are invisible hazards that can sneak into commercial compost: pesticides and other synthetic chemicals.  A large amount of commercial compost raw material comes from grass clippings, which can be laden with pesticides.  These pesticides stay on the material as it is broken down, and therefore remain in the compost material.  If this compost is then mixed with soil to grow crops, the pesticides can contaminate those crops.  Not a good thing for people who live organic, avoiding pesticides and synthetic chemicals!  And this can also negatively impact some crop growth.

I still believe that there are many benefits to industrial composting, but recognize that we do have a long way to go to make this a truly great thing. 

What do you do with compost before you bring it to the bin, pile, etc.?

There are several ways to store food scraps before putting in your compost bin, pile, or other vessel.  I personally keep my compost in a cute bin on my counter where it is easy to access, but keeps the stink away.  This works well for me because I cook daily, generating at least small amounts of compostable waste frequently.  I love this countertop compost pail.  It has a carbon filter in the lid which prevents any smell from getting out of the bin.  It’s convenient to store food scraps so I don’t have to run outside to my compost bin every time I cut apples or trim kale.  And it looks nice enough- it’s a pretty way to store my ugly food trimmings. 

stainless steel gallon compost pail on a kitchen counter

You can also store your food trimmings in a sealing container in your refrigerator or freezer.  This will keep the smell contained and decelerate rotting until you can dump it into your compost container.

Alternately, you can bring compostable materials directly to the compost container after generating the waste.  

Benefits (to you and the planet)

There are so many benefits to composting! One of the huge benefits is to the environment. When you compost, you are allowing the nutrients from organic materials to be released back into the Earth.  These nutrients are used to build new organic matter, fueling the growth of trees, grass, the plants in your garden.  Additionally, it is keeping these food scraps out of landfills. Nothing in landfills breaks down. It doesn’t have the right combination of nutrients, organic matter, and good microbes to break down the food. So we’re filling our landfills, and robbing the Earth of its precious nutrients.

Additionally, composting can save you money. The EPA estimates that about 22% of the waste that ends up in landfills is food waste. No matter what the setup is, you pay to dispose of waste in the landfill.  It might just be the plastic garbage bags that you purchase to line your garbage bin, it may be town trash bags, or you may pay by the weight of garbage you bring to the landfill. If you can reduce even just a portion of that 22%, you’re saving yourself money!

My town charges me to participate in their disposal program, but also to purchase special town garbage bags, into which all of my landfill waste must go. I used to fill a 30 gallon trash bag (which cost me $2) every two-three weeks or so. Now that I compost and am more conscious of minimizing waste as I live my life, I rarely fill a 13-gallon trash bag in a month. This saves me money, saves landfill space, and gives me nutritious compost to help feed the plants in my garden!

Do you compost? Do you have any tips to share? Please post in the comments below!

Zero Waste Period? Part 1 of 2

This post is for all you ladies out there who hate how much waste you generate each month during your “time of the month.”  If you’re not a lady, or are a coworker and suspect this may be too much information, it probably is.  And you should probably stop reading.  Maybe jump over to this fun article about my favorite environmentally friendly kitchen products!  


Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links.  See my Disclosure Policy for more information.


Ok, hopefully I’ve filled enough of the page with unrelated text that you didn’t see anything you don’t want to see.  Now I’ll get on with the cool product that I discovered before a SCUBA diving trip that has allowed me to have zero waste periods for 4.5 years and counting – the menstrual cup!  

Lena Menstrual Cup packaging and blog titleThe average woman who uses tampons will use 5,000-14,000 in her lifetime.  That’s based on average use of 11-30 tampons per month.   I used to be right on that average 20.  That is so much waste ending up in the landfill – not just the tampons, but the packaging, the waste associated with manufacturing, transportation, and probably more that I’m not thinking about.  

Additionally, tampons may be laden with chemicals.  Everyone thinks about organic/pesticide free food to avoid the health risks potentially associated with pesticides.  I’ve already started sharing simple homemade cosmetics (lotions, sunscreens, soaps…) that are free of synthetic chemicals and pesticides .  But so few women think about their “monthly” products, or if they do, it’s tough to find information about alternatives because it is such a taboo subject – at least in the culture in which I live, here in the US.  

The fact is, many products that contact our skin can be absorbed through the skin.  Absorption through skin is dependent on many factors, including particle size, if the skin is intact (or has cuts, tears, abrasions), thickness of the skin in the exposed area, duration of contact, and more.  With an average period lasting 4 days and occurring every 28 days, that’s roughly 13 periods a year, totaling 52 days.  If you use a tampon that whole time, that is 14% of your life during years of menstruation!  I don’t want chemicals absorbing into my body, especially for that much time, just to deal with a normal female bodily function.

Luckily, there is a solution: the menstrual cup!

The Menstrual Cup

Lena Menstrual Cup packaging and product

The menstrual cup may be my favorite invention ever (ok, there are too many awesome ones to pick a favorite, but it is pretty high up there in my opinion).  The menstrual cup is a flexible silicone cup that is inserted into the vagina with the opening positioned around the cervix.  It captures your flow before it leaves your body.  The manufacturer websites provide excellent information and instructions on how to use menstrual cups (Check out Lena menstrual cup product info and insertion video on the home page – it is informative but not graphic).  It definitely takes a little practice and time to get used it, but I will never go back.

Lena Menstrual Cup packaging and product with scale

The Good
  • If sized and inserted properly, you will NOT feel it.  At all.
  • ONE can be reused for about 10 years (per manufacturer claims. I used a Diva Cup for 3 years and have been using a Lena Cup for 1.5 years, with no sign of damage or break-down)
  • NO pesticides or bleach is entering your body, as can happen when using tampons.  My skin is highly sensitive – I get contact dermatitis and skin irritation a lot, and I have never had any problem with contact to silicone.  Everyone is different, so there is a chance that you could have a sensitivity to silicone. 
  • Saves money!
The Bad

Silicone is not the same as the naturally occurring element silica.  Silicone is synthetic, and bioaccumulative (meaning that, like plastics, once created it will never fully break down).  However, since 1 cup can last 10 years, which is roughly 130 periods and 2,600 tampons, I personally believe this product leaves a smaller environmental footprint.

How to choose which menstrual cup is right for you?

It can be a bit challenging, finding the menstrual cup that is right for you.  In all honesty, for me it was a little bit of trial and error.  When I first purchased a menstrual cup, it was the day before I was to fly to Florida for a vacation including SCUBA diving.  The last time I dove, I remember being really irritated at having to deal with tampons wetsuits, and limited access for restrooms.  Since I waited until the last minute, my options were limited to the Diva Cup – the only reusable menstrual cup that I could find in a brick and mortar store anywhere near me.  Reading up online, it seemed good enough.  

Diva Cup Packaging

After using the Diva Cup for about a year, I grew frustrated that I could always feel it, ranging from conscious awareness to constant discomfort.  I found a menstrual cup size comparison online (there are many others, in case this one doesn’t contain the cup you’re considering), and based on dimensions and Amazon reviews, I selected the Lena menstrual cup size small. It fits me perfectly, and I expect to use it for many more years. 

Care

As the manufacturers recommend in their instructions, I clean the menstrual cup with a fragrance free soap each time I empty it.  My homemade liquid castile soap or Dr. Bronner’s castile soap work great.  

Every several months, when I notice the silicone looking a bit stained, I soak the menstrual cup in hydrogen peroxide for a few hours or overnight. After that soak, the cup looks new!

After use, I allow to air dry, then put the menstrual cup in its cute little bag and tuck it away until the next month. 

Cost

Menstrual cups cost about $15-40 each.  I personally love the Lena menstrual cup, which costs $25 for one cup or $40 for a 2-pack (1 of each size). Using the cost of a single Lena menstrual cup for comparison, the 10-year cost of the cup versus tampons is:

Lena menstrual cup: $25 x 1 =$25 for 10 years

OB non-applicator tampons, 40 pack. ($6.50/pack) x (1 pack/2 periods) x (13 periods/year) x (10 years) = $422.50 for 10 years

This means that the Lena menstrual cup pays for itself in only 8 months!  In 10 years, it saves ($422.50-$25= )$397.50.  

Lifetime Cost

Assuming a the average 38 years of menstruation, lifetime cost is:

Lena menstrual cup: $25×4=$100 for 38 years

OB non-applicator tampons, 40 pack. ($6.50/pack) x (1 pack/2 periods) x (13 periods/year) x (38 years) = $1,605.50 for 38 years 

Lifetime savings is $1,605.50 – $100 = $1,505.50.  

My personal costs

Lena Cup and Diva Cup packaging

As I mentioned, I tried the Diva Cup before finding the Lena cup.  Even with one “failure” purchase (which wasn’t a complete failure – it allowed me to select the correct size the second time), I am still better off financially (as well as health and environmentally) than if I stuck with tampons. 

Diva Cup + Lena Cup: $40+$25=$65; have used for 4.5 years

OB non-applicator tampons, 40 pack. ($6.50/pack) x (1 pack/2 periods) x (13 periods/year) x (4.5 years) = $190.13 for 4.5 years

Savings: $190.13-$65=$125.13

Have you tried a menstrual cup? Do you have questions? Share in the comments below, or feel free to send me a private message using the form on this page!